Cyrus cd8 se2 skipping and disc read problems, DIY laser unit replacement

Ok, so I had some issues with my Cyrus cd8 se2 (factory upgraded by Cyrus from SE to SE2 unit)
The player didnt read all discs properly and it was skipping with some tracks. I've read about similar experiences on the web about Cyrus cd players.

Cyrus repair would have cost 250£, not including the postage overseas.
I ordered a replament Laser unit from Ebay, which cost 20£ and did seem to do the trick. Skipping issues are gone. The do-it-yourself repair took about 5minutes to complete after I found the proper instructions from the laser units distributor.

The exact model of the laser unit for the Cyrus cd8 se and se2 is SF-HD850. Apparently its a dvd-laser unit made by Sanyo.

Cyrus claims on their website that "Cyrus took the unique move of throwing that software out of the window and creating our own disc reading technology. All of our CD players now use our second generation servo software which provides audible improvements to the reading of CDs." Ok, maybe it has something more to do with the software and not so much on the laser unit.

Here is the link to the sd-hd850 product page:
http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/112725-optical-pick-laser-lens-sf-hd850-sfhd850-sanyo.html

Specifications:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1668704.pdf

This install manual shows the location of the "desolder point"
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1668705.pdf


And some images of the laser replacement:

Unit upside down, begin by removing 4 screws, yep, thats a t10 torx head.

Remove the small screw holding the "power" pcb card in place. Above the motor.

You need to carefully remove the small plastic clip holding the large white gear in place. Pull the gear up.

The laser unit is attached to two metal shafts. Unscrew the two small screws holding the shaft in place, you only need to remove the shaft on one side and the laser unit comes off pretty easily.

Remove the cable carefully, it is held in place with the black plastic tab. Note the orientation.

Impotant: The new laser unit will not work unless your remove the solder dot on the new unit. Compare the old unit to the old one. The place is marked on the pdf link.

This should work, atleast did work on my cd player.

Hifimaailma hm100db/w

Jees, lisää rakentelukuvia

Vanha Hifimaailman hm-100db/w projekti ja kuvia

Diy project featuring Eighteensound 15" midbass and horns, based on Diy-speaker from Hifimaailma magazine.

I purchased the DIY speakers original with very very large cabinets.













The cabinets very filled with normal "glass wool" used in building insulation. This is not good practise in my opinion, as it will be transferred into room air via the reflex ports.

I designed new much smaller cabinets. I have a large amount of room gain due to my listening room dimensions, thus the very large original cabinets did deliver bass a little "boomy".

Etulevyn mallailua

Ristikkäistuet havuvanerista

Etulevyn pyöristetyt refleksiputket kartonkiputkesta

Osien mallailua etulevyyn

Refleksiputkien pyöristykset

Kylkien viilutus pähkinäviilulla

Puskusauman kittaus, yläjyrsimellä ura ja kittaus yli

Kyljet viilutettuna, viilut lakattu ruiskulla himmeällä kalustelakalla

Runko maalattuna mustaksi ruiskulla

Viilutetut sivut liimattuna koteloon

My stereo integrity ht 18" sealed 150l subwoofer build

Powered by Behringer Inuke 6000dsp



Finished subwoofer in black, I actually made two of these babies. Painted in matt black using a high quality roller.

Two Stereo Integrity ht 18" d4 subwoofer elements, I ordered them with dual 4ohm voice coils, so I could run them at 8 ohm nominal impedance for lower distortion. Amplifier is the Behringer Inuke6000dsp. Its a d-class amp with 2 x 1500 watts to 8 ohms so there's plenty of juice to go around.

Modeling how the 150 liter woofer cabinets would fit into our living room, dummy box made out of cardboard.

Quick 3D model of how I wanted to make the internal cross bracing, as I didn't want to waste precious internal volume of the enclosure. IMHO using heavy bracing also adds unnecessary weight.

On with the show, I used very old , should I say waste-quality mdf , in 22 mm. For two 150 litre subs you need lots of it!

After roughly cutting the sides, I went onto gluing the "face-side" of the sub, I used birch veneer for the doubling of the element side of the sub, as the recess for the element is quite deep.

After this point its just putting the pieces of the box together!

Glue has settled but the box is looking a bit rough around the corners, as was expected with so low quality mdf.

I "painted" the inside corners of the box with normal wood glue, to make the enclosure completely sealed.

Then onto making the internal bracing, 2cm strips of birch ply will do.

Internal bracing done, after the glue had settled I glued some packing foam to the walls for damping. Theres quite a difference when you do this, put your head inside the enclosure and listen to outside noises...

Like seen from previous pictures, the corners were still pretty rough, since the mdf I used was pretty low quality and bent out of shape. I made some wood plaster from wood glue and mdf powder, works like a charm. This plaster is the same material and color as the original mdf and tough as nails, really hard to sand.

Corners were rounded with a router bit, too bad I didn't take photos of this phase.

Next is the painting, with a good quality roller and furniture paint. White is the base coat, and then the top coat in matte black.

Painting with a roller is relatively easy, compared to painting with a spray gun. Applying a thicker coat is also more forgiving on the finished surface, and IMHO suits pretty well to a subwoofer of this size, gives that PA-look to the finished cabinet.

For sealing the element I used regular window sealing tape found in hardware stores, works nicely and you can be sure its airtight.

I topped the enclosures with polyester filling from cheap Ikea pillows. Some people would argue that this is not necessary, but I believe the filling adds resistance to the internal airflow of the cabinet, thus effectively increasing the volume of the enclosure. 

Finished sub.